Koshiji

Past the window display of mitarashi dango, rice balls and inari sushi, a relaxed dining space opens up at the back. Along the shopping street in Yutenji, Koshiji has long been known both as a wagashi shop and as a place to eat. Alongside people picking up sweets while shopping, diners regularly settle in at the tables in back for lunch or a sweet treat.

Comforting chūka soba, fragrant with chicken stock and dried sardines

A bowl of soy-sauce ramen, its piping-hot soup sending up steam, is an inviting choice from this sweets shop. The soy-seasoned broth draws on chicken bones and dried sardines. Light on the palate, it has a well-judged balance of saltiness and savoury stock flavour, and clings well to the medium-thin, curly noodles. Choose the chashu ramen and it comes topped generously with braised pork thigh that still has some chew, for an unpretentious and satisfying bowl. Add a plate of well-browned gyoza, or opt for chilled Chinese-style noodles in summer, and the place’s easygoing feel is much like that of a neighbourhood Chinese diner.

Add a rice ball or inari sushi

For a side with ramen, rice balls or inari sushi from the shopfront make an appealing choice. The inari sushi is well seasoned, while the rice balls have simple fillings such as salmon or tarako (salted cod roe); both pair especially well with something warm to drink. The display case also holds prepared side dishes and boxed meals. Many nearby customers pick them up to take away rather than eat in.

From oshiruko to soft serve, sweets to finish

Being able to linger over sweets after a meal is another of the pleasures here. A warm bowl of oshiruko—sweet red-bean soup—with tea makes for a soothing pause, while shaved ice and soft serve in a cone offer a cool treat in summer. Order kusa dango or mitarashi dango on its own for a small snack. It is an easygoing place to stop and rest while out for a walk.